After my recent tour of The Ruhr, (
European Capital of Culture for 2010) I have decided to let my hair down, and what better place to par-tay than Berlin? Capital of a nation, the source of Germany’s ample creative juices, epicentre of cool, axis of awesomeness. There’s no other city quite like Berlin, which is why I always keep coming back for more.
My mission - other than to party of course - is also to chill, and this is just the weekend to do both, Berlin style of course. The arrival of half a million people for Berlin’s 18th Stadfest festival (
www.regenbogenfonds.de) which takes place on 12-13 June this year should take care of the first part of my plan. I’ve decided to hit the beach too, but “in Berlin” I hear you cry?
No, I haven’t lost my marbles - yet. Berlin is leading the urban beach revolution that is currently sweeping across Europe. My research tells me to expect imported Baltic sand, palm trees, sophisticated cocktails and an achingly hip beach club vibe at numerous locations dotted throughout the city. I’m also imagining hordes of buff Teutonic totty tanning in Karl Lagerfeld sunnies and Boss swimming briefs. Sorry - but it’s the truth - I just can’t help myself!
I’ve booked (once again) at the Axel Berlin (
www.axelhotels.com) because, as an achingly hip Euro-poof I fit right in, and also because it’s right in the heart of the action. Located in Schöneberg, this western district of the city is also the premier queer nucleus of Berlin with loads of bars, cafes, shops and clubs within in a short stroll. It’s also a stiletto’s throw from Nollendorfplatz where 20,000 square metres has been designated a gay stomping ground for the weekend of Stadfest in and around Motzstrasse, Eisenacher Strasse, Fuggerstrasse and Kalckreuthstrasse.
No time for malingering then, there’s a party out there with my name on it. The helpful Axel staff point me in the right direction, which wouldn’t have been hard to deduce given the flood of urbane homosexuals striding purposefully in one direction. I’m definitely on to something, “nice one Sherlock”, and join the throng.
Half a kilometre later and I arrive at the entrance on Berlin’s queerest stretch of concrete, Motzstrasse. This street is home to Berlin’s favourite bars, the Blue Boy bar, GOYA, Nah Bar and Tom’s, to name a few and are all packed to overflowing and there’s a healthy trade being done at the stalls and food kiosks too. I also discover that there are stalls for Berlin CSD, (
www.csd-berlin.de) Folsom Fair Europe, (
(www.folsomeurope.com) and the Cologne Gay Games, (
www.games-cologne.de) My next holidays all taken care of then!
It’s thirsty work, time for a stein (or two) and Tom’s Bar seems to have a nice selection of hirsute gentlemen, time to mingle. You can never beat a bit of local knowledge in my experience and luckily Dieter and Roedi, two Berlin locals are soon filling me in, so to speak, with the best beaches in and around the city.
The first beach-style venue to open its doors to the public was the Strandbar Mitte, in Monbijou Park in Hackescher Markt. This urban chill out zone definitely has a beach atmosphere and waterfront location, but no swimming. The Bundespressestrand which faces the Reichstag in Mitte comes complete with palm trees, deckchairs, two pools and cold beers on its 100 tons of Baltic sand. There’s even a volleyball court, although this seems a little strenuous if you ask me.
The beach at the Box Bar is right in the heart of the beautiful Tiergarten, but Monday is the dedicated gay night here which apparently lures people into the open from the hunting grounds of the Tiergarten’s Tuntenweise. It’s also Mondays that’s gay night at Traumstrand Berlin right by the central station, perhaps on another visit then. The Freibad Plötzensee close to Tegel Airport is the most central location in the city for a lakeside swim, and there’s even a nudist section for those brave enough to bear all.
Apparently though if I want the best gay beach, and I do, then a trip to Wannsee Beach in the south west of the city is a must. Wannsee is a huge lake which is best reached by the S-bahn on the S1 line. Confusingly you get off at Nikolassee S-Bahn station, not Wannsee station, which is the next stop, which is only a dozen stops from Potsdamer Platz, once there the beach is a 10 minute stroll away.
Turning right onto the beach you pass the FKK (Frei Korper Kultur = nudist) section and arrive at the gay section shortly after. It seems that not all of Berlin’s gay community are living it up in town and the sun has drawn a good number of people to the lake shore.
The beach of fine sand shelves gently into the huge lake and there are views of the wooded hills in the distance, it’s hard to believe I’m just 40 minutes from central Berlin. There’s a few ducks waddling in between the groups of sunbathers, oblivious to the fact that their home has been invaded for the day. They seem quite happy until a duck fight breaks out over the remnants of a sandwich from one of the beach bars. It’s the only squabbling I see all day though, everyone else is far too relaxed to even notice.
The end of the day sees me join the exodus back to town where the Stadtfest is still in full swing. I have to admit that I did get waylaid in the disco tent for a couple of hours, damn that Disco Inferno. Eventually I make it back for a nightcap at the Sky Bar on the roof of the Axel though, a great end to a perfect day.
I can’t decide quite what to plan for tomorrow to be honest. Perhaps I’ll give the Disco tent a wide berth lest Gloria Gaynor kidnaps me for another couple of hours. Perhaps I’ll just head back out to Berlin beach though, and see if those ducks have decided to make up.
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From subversive street demos to glamorous parties, Pride marches to sport tournaments, Germany’s gay calendar is packed like a Drag King’s trousers. 
Forget Independence Day, 4th July is all about Cologne Pride. The main events leading up to the epic street parade are Fantasy Pride in the theme park Phantasialand (19 June) – where you can totally get your freak on, and also WomenPride which features the usual lesbian melange of cultural, sports and social stuff. The big day sees fabulous floats, fierce outfits and a whole load of gays commandeer the picturesque old town. www.csd-cologne.de has more info.
